Hair Segmented & Tied increase & prepared For Coloring. Shot and it is in neat in your work. It will certainly help!

Always use hair color on dry, unwashed hair.

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Choose developer toughness according to how plenty of levels you should lift.Use 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels, 30 Vol because that 2-3 level & 40 Vol for 3 levels. If you room going much more than 3 levels lighter, you will should use bleach first.Stick to the recommended color and also developer mix rules.For Ugly Duckling colors, the mix is 1+1. For Ugly Duckling toners & high elevator colors, the mix is 1+2.Segment hair neatly and start working from the earlier for a complete head application.Do a 2nd application using fingers and also gloves.Emulsify after handling is over and then rinse.


Do These points to obtain the Best Out that Your color Application

1. Use hair dye top top dry, unwashed hair

All hair dye has actually been designed come work best on dry, unwashed hair.The oil from your client"s hair will safeguard the scalp while the is gift colored.All you must do to prepare the hair because that coloring is comb it finely so that you are all set to begin sectioning. 

2. Evaluate how plenty of levels you space lifting & decide your developer choice on the basis.

Do a very accurate assessment of every part of your client"s hair.The vital questions you should ask yourself space (a) "What level is the hair now?" and (b) "What level perform you must lighten in to?"The difference in between the 2 will assist you determine the strength of developer you will certainly use and whether you will should use lightener or not.Your developer selection will be a an outcome of the number of levels that you space lifting by.


For level top top level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.For 1-2 level lift, use 20 Vol developer.For 2-3 level lift, use 30 Vol developer.For 3 levels, use 40 Vol developer.For most instances of pre-lightening with lightener, use either 20 or 30 Vol developer. If you are toning we usually recommend 20 Vol no 10 Vol. You will certainly get much better vibrancy the way.

When doing complete head coloring, because that the source area, constantly reduce developer stamin by 1 level.

Or use at the end to reduce processing time. The will process faster there.


Here room some instances of hair color to allow you to understand how to accurately assess your client"s hair color level.

The model listed below has level 4/5 hair. If you are trying to acquire her to level 6 dark blonde, that"s 2 levels. Usage 30 Vol developer.

For the source area, usage 20 Vol developer, however. Reason: the processes faster there.


The model listed below has level 6/7 ~ above the regrowth area and also level 10 top top the ends. Therefore 3 level of lift is required.

So you are going to must use bleach come lift that.

3. Get your hair color and also developer mix right. 

The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact ~ above the hair color result.If you placed in too tiny developer, you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough.If you placed in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the shade won’t last.So constantly measure your hair dye and developer properly. How do you measure the hair color and also developer? Use one of two people kitchen scale or a measure up bowl through markers.

For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the exactly mix is 1 part hair dye come 1 part developer.For high background cUgly Duckling colors, the exactly mix is 1 component hair dye to 2 components developer.For Ugly Duckling cream-based toners, the correct mix is also 1 component toner come 2 components developer.

Use your dye brush to mix the color and the developer into a smooth paste through no lumps as in the snapshot below.If you are using Ugly Duckling color, there is a lanolin oil additive in the color which will assist make the dough nice, smooth and oily.The lanolin also protects her scalp which gives greater scalp comfort throughout coloring.

4. How to Measure her Hair color & Developer.

The best method is to usage kitchen scales. Ar the empty bowl on the scale and collection to zero.Now include in your color. One complete tube the Ugly Duckling shade will generally be sufficient for medium size hair. (Ugly Duckling tubes space extra huge sized - 3.5 oz).Read off how many oz girlfriend have.

Now collection it come zero again and if you are doing color, include in the same number of ounces of developer.If you space doing toner or high background color, add in twin the amount of developer come toner..

If you are using bleach, also include in double the amount of developer come bleachJust remember that one pipe of Ugly Duckling Hair shade contains 3.5 oz the colorSo for Ugly Duckling colors, if you are using 1 totality tube, you must pour in 3.5 oz that developerFor Ugly Duckling toners and high lift colors, again because that 1 tube, you will must pour in 7 oz that developer.


This is what a 1:1 hair shade mix looks prefer - 1 component color come 1 part developer.

5. Get your Bleach and also Developer Mix Right

If you space using Ugly Duckling bleaches, the mix is 1 part bleach to 2 components developer.

Use the scoop in her bleach bath tub to measure the end your bleach, then usage the exact same scoop spoon come measure the end developer.With experience, you will discover to "sight-inspect" your mix and also get it best without measuring.

For Ugly Duckling bleaches use 10 or 20 Vol because that the source area.

Use 20 or 30 Vol because that the lengths depending upon how dark her hair is.


This is what a 1:2 bleach"developer mix looks prefer (Ugly Duckling excellent Blondexx Bleach)

6. Section the hair correctly before using hair dye

Section hair into big sections and also pin up.

Separate the hair into large sections. Tie increase sections v a clip.Leave one section (usually the lower back section) down.On the unclipped section, start taking ¼ customs mini-sections in bespeak to apply the color with your dye brush.Lift every strand up and also apply color from just away indigenous the scalp to the ends.Neat, even. Well sectioning is really really important. Otherwise the whole thing will become a mess!Once you have completed 1 huge section in this way, pen up again. Then begin on one more section and do mini part on this one in the exact same way.Repeat on all sections till you have actually finished coloring the hair.

7. Use enough Product.

In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you need to use enough product mix and you need to saturate the hair properly.Ugly Duckling tubes room 3.5 oz, i beg your pardon is much more than many colors.So there is generally sufficient product because that a generosity use even for a long hair application.

8. Usage your finger to perform the coloring a 2nd time.

Run v the hair a 2nd time after applying the color, v fingers (wearing gloves). Don"t hesitate to do a new mix if you have run the end of product.Ugly Duckling shade tubes room fairly big - 3.5 oz contrasted to the usual 2 or 2.5 oz. Therefore one pipe of shade with 3.5 oz the developer must give sufficient mix for most complete head applications.By using your fingers you can spread the end the color (avoid patches) and additionally deposit much more color right into the cortex simply as the cuticle is opening up. This is what renders the color really intense and also vibrant as soon as you space dyeing hair.If her customer has white hair, girlfriend should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and also checking that all white hair has been appropriately covered.Some areas such together the nape area are an especially resistant and also you must pay particular attention here. Prevent using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up destroying the hair cuticles which have been opened in the colour process.


Using fingers because that a second color application

9. Respect the handling time

For many colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.For toners, wash off once the exactly color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes. Be aware that hair in ~ the scalp processes quicker than everywhere else due to the heat of the scalp. You should watch this area as soon as going lighter and be prepared to to wash as soon as this area looks done, also if this is prior to the 30 minutes room up.


Color all done and processing

10. Emulsify


Hair gift gently emulsified before the rinse.

Before rinsing, add a small water come the color and rub in ~ the scalp area.Then obstacle well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.This procedure is well-known as emulsification.It help lock in the shade into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting shade results plus hair the feels complete and an extremely well conditioned.

11. Shampoo utilizing an acidic (low pH) shampoo

Use one acidic shampoo.This will aid close the hair cuticle, lock in the color and also return the hair to its herbal pH level. Don"t assume all expert shampoo and also mask is acidic and sulfate free. Girlfriend will require to check on the label.

All Ugly Duckling shampoos space low pH.

Going Darker


Dark hair tied increase & prepared for coloring. Notification how the earlier is let down...that is wherein the colorist is going come start.

When colour darker, you can color the roots at the very same time as the lengths.The same applies during level top top level coloring.Just section the hair as explained over & use color in the normal way.

Going Lighter - Dark Regrowth

This customer wants to be blonde - but her regrowth is really quite dark. 

Lift the dark regrowth area an initial with lightener. Bring the dark component up to a an extremely pale yellow.Then ton the totality head, beginning with the part which demands the most toning.

Going Lighter - irradiate Regrowth


This client"s regrowth has been effectively lifted to a level 10.

Do the regrowth and also the end at the exact same time. Do not over procedure the regrowth area together otherwise friend may gain "hot roots"Rinse as shortly as the root have achieved the preferred result.

Going Lighter - long Hair

With really long hair, that is best to perform the lifting in 2 stages - very first lengths, climate the roots.

When the hair size is very long, the applications time itself have the right to take 15-20 minutes - functioning fast.In this case you don"t desire to allow the shade sit on the root area too long - friend will obtain "hot roots".So execute the lengths first and climate rinse.Then perform the regrowth separately.You will certainly get far better control that means of the lifting process.

Grey Hair Coverage 


25% grey hair.

All Ugly Duckling colors do contain pigments i beg your pardon will assist color in grey hair.Nevertheless, if grey hair coverage is one issue, it may be recipient to take it extra measures as defined below.Mix some of the equivalent base color (ending in "N") or extra coverage color (ending in "NN) into your desired color choice.This is recognized as "adding the base".The dominion is to add as much of the base as the customer has grey hair.So, because that example, add in 25% base once your customer has 25% grey hair, 50% base as soon as she has 50% grey hair, and also so on.

Color mediate Issues


Dark blonde regrowth, yellow & brassy mid-lengths, white ends. Three different colors in this client"s hair!


Once again - 3 different colors. Red, orange and also just level brown in ~ the roots.

If the hair is also brassy, too yellow or as well orange, he best solution is always to lift very first with a high quality bleach.We offered bleach in both the cases above. Clearly, us bleached much more in the second case compared to the an initial case.Ugly Duckling"s Bond protect Bleach brilliant Blondexx need to be her go-to bleach because that this purpose, It has anti-breakage developed in and also it is gentle on the hair as well as the scalp area.If your client is unwilling to lift, then you will must tone down her hair to eliminate brass.Use Ugly Duckling cold ash blonde shades (Blue based) for level 6 and lighter. Consider adding in Ash Blue Additive- that will aid tone under yellow.Use Ugly Duckling"s ash and extra ash shades for level 6 and also darker. Consider adding in Ash Grey Additive - the will assist tone under orange and also red.

Video accuse 1

Violet and also Silver Blonde shadow Root. Hair by Elona TakiProducts Used:Brilliant Blonde Lightener for re-growthViolet through Intense silver- Blonde because that root areaIntense silver Blonde 100B for lengths20 Vol Developer

Video tutorial 2

Lifting Dark Virgin Hair v High Lift color - No Bleach. Hair by Elona TakiProducts Used:

100.11 High lift Deep Ash Blonde

40 Vol Developer

Video accuse 3

Lifting and Toning eastern Hair Blonde. Hair by Elona Taki

Products Used:

Brilliant Blonde Lightener

Pearl Blonde Toner 10V

20 Vol Developer

NB because that a new customer we always recommend a patch test 24 hours in advance.Here"s exactly how to carry out it: do a tiny mix the the shade to it is in used and also developer and also apply onto the nape area simply behind the ear.If your client gets no reaction in ~ 24 hours, that"s great and you deserve to go ahead and apply the color.

Q: Which room Ugly Duckling finest Selling Blonding colors & Toners?

A: Ugly Duckling"s best Known Toners are given Below. 


Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V on pre-lightened hair.


Pearl Blonde Toner 10V top top pre-lightened hair.


Silver Grey on pre-lightened Hair


Extra Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b on pre-lightened hair.

Q: Which are Ugly Duckling ideal Selling Fashion Colors?

A: Ugly Duckling"s ideal Selling Fashion colors are given Below.


Rose Gold

Intense Violet Blonde 7.22/7VV


Ruby Red

9.23 rosy Beige Blonde 


Mix of quite Pink, Rose gold & Fuschia Pink. Achieved on Prelightened Hair.


Violet & intense Silver Blonde 


How perform I understand which color, bleach or toner come use?

Start by feather at her hair carefully and also doing an analysis of the ends, mid-lengths and regrowth areas. If castle are various colors, for certain you space going to need to do various things in those locations before you can do your last coloring or toning.

You can use the Ugly Duckling color Advice app to help you carry out this.

What need to I execute 48 hours prior to coloring?

Nothing. Don"t even shampoo. Hair color and bleach and also toner works best on dry, unwashed hair. The reason is that your customer"s hair produces natural oils which aid protect the hair throughout the colour process, and especially defend the root area.

Note: If you space needing to do a twin process colour operation, girlfriend don"t must blow dried after bleaching. Simply towel dry extensively so that there is no overfill water in the hair. Ours toners perform work an extremely well top top wet hair as well as dry.

I have actually dark hair. How light can I go?

There is no limit v Ugly Duckling bleaches and also toners. We have actually tutorials whereby we take it customers from virgin dark come ultra white platinum blonde in one session. It will certainly take time, that"s all. Over all, gain the processes and the assets right.

I"m trying to find personalized hair color selection advice. Where must I go?

Consult the Ugly Duckling color Advice app. For hair shade ideas and also detailed recipes.

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I need advice on i beg your pardon developer strength to use. Where must I go?

Go here: Ugly Duckling Developer an option app.

around the author Sally Madison, National shade Trainer.

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the us & Europe. She currently does hair color training because that Ugly Duckling. She additionally helps develop brand-new & awesome products for the brand.’ve been a hairstylist for 30 years and I’ve tried a ton of different hair shade lines to uncover the perfect blonde because that my clients and also for myself...never could quite get the level and tone i wanted, every color I tried constantly fell just shy of whereby I wanted it...until ns tried Ugly Duckling!!! The very first time I supplied it on a client I think us were both skeptical, this wasn’t our an initial “perfect white blonde” rodeo. But after lightening then toning through Ugly Duckling 100.21 + Olaplex, we rinsed, and there it was...the color we had actually been trying to find all along!!!! The harps played and the angels sang!!!! ns was instantly hooked on Ugly Duckling’s awesome blonding colors and also techniques!! If, like me, you have actually struggled to find that perfect blonde tone do not hesitate to try Ugly Duckling’s beautiful blondes!! you will do it be so glad you did!! many thanks Ugly Duckling!!